Glass Tile Coasters

This is a follow up post to the Ceramic tile coasters I posted previously.  After completing the ceramic tiles, I wondered if I could use etching cream to etch glass tiles.  The answer is a resounding YES!

I bought a smattering of colors to try it out on, and sure enough, they look great!  The nice thing about the glass tiles is that they don't have to be sealed with a top coat and there is nothing to let dry, so they are a much quicker and simpler project.

Etched Glass Tiles

Materials:
Etching Cream (if you look hard enough, most Michael's stores carry it, although the employees don't always know this... oh and you may need to be over 18 to buy it.  I was carded once)
latex or non latex gloves
paint brush (about 1/2" wide is best)
shelf/contact paper or special stenciling paper
masking tape
pencil or pen
scissors or exacto knife
Stencil (optional)
Access to a sink that will not be damaged by the etching cream (I wish I had a utility sink...)
paper towels
Felt or cork for backing
Glue to adhere backing to glass

1)  Clean the surface of the tile with soap and water and dry thoroughly (do not use glass cleaner!).  Cut a piece of shelf paper to the dimensions of the tile, or at least enough to cut your stencil from.

2)  Decide what pattern you would like to etch into the surface.  Remember that you will be etching the area that is cut out.  Use a stencil or freehand the pattern onto the shelf paper.  I usually draw on the paper backing because the vinyl surface is hard to mark.  If you use a felt tip pen or marker it is easier, but I prefer the thinner lines so I know exactly where to cut.

3)  Use scissors or an exacto knife (don't cut through your work surface!  put some cardboard behind...) to cut out the pattern.  If you have "floaters" you will have to adhere them separately.

4)  Peel off the backing, and stick the shelf paper to the surface of the tile.  Use  your fingers or something flat to rub any air bubbles out of the contact paper.  Make sure the edges are stuck down very well.  This will help make sharp lines instead of allowing bleed through once the etching cream is applied.  Place masking tape around the outer edges of the contact paper to cover any other exposed areas that you do not want to get etching cream on.  Having a wide barrier is beneficial, trust me!

5) Put on your gloves.  Shake the etching cream well.  Apply a moderately thick layer to the exposed areas of the tile.  Moderately thick means that you should not be able to see through the etching cream to the surface of your project easily.  It should be nearly opaque.  If the etching cream has lumps in it, don't worry.  That is normal.  Allow the etching cream to sit according to the directions on the bottle (I think it recommends about 1 minute - please read the instructions for your safety... This is a dangerously caustic chemical!).  Note: Etching cream is not meant to do large areas.  For the surface of the tile, it works fine, but use an etch bath or sandblast etching for larger projects.

6)  Go to the sink (keep your gloves on) and rinse the tile well.  Resist the urge to rub with your fingers, because it can cause streaks in the finished product.  Rinse out your brush, too.  Remove the masking tape and stencil/shelf paper.  Rinse some more.  Put the etched item on a paper towel and rinse out the sink thoroughly.  You can remove your gloves now!

7)  Wash your hands with soap and water.  (I am not kidding - this is a really nasty chemical!  You don't want to ingest it or touch your face with it on your hands!)  I usually wash the tile, too, just to make sure all the residue is off.  Towel off your project to see the etching come to life!

8)  Cut backing to fit tile.  Glue felt or cork to the back of the tile using a glue that will adhere to glass, or use the self-adhesive kind.  (for more details on the backing see the ceramic tile posting) Voila! You have coasters!

Project Notes:  If you want all 4 of your tiles to match exactly and you are not using a stencil, create a cardboard cutout of your design so you can easily trace and cut each piece of shelf paper.  This is a one time use item, so don't expect to salvage it.  Alternately, there are commercial products (available from sites like etchworld.com) that allow you to re-stick a handmade stencil (I think it is called over and over), but even those have limits on how many times you can reuse them.  So, if you want to make a lot of the same pattern, create a master copy!  Also, intricate or delicate patterns do not work very well with etching cream because it is so hard to cut out the shelf paper and it is hard to adhere a delicate stencil to the tile.  There will always be a little bleed through which is very noticeable with really intricate patterns that need a hard edge to look good.  Keep these in mind when designing so you aren't disappointed with your outcomes after putting in a lot of work on a complex stencil.

Bottom Line:
Etching cream (small bottle) ~$8
shelf paper ~$5
pair of gloves (buy a box instead of individually to save money; 50 pair ~$5) ~$1
paint brush ~ $.20
4 glass tiles @ $2 each = $8

Time spent: less than an hour, depending on the complexity of your pattern
Total cost per set of 4 tile coasters ~$21

Of course, the etching cream you can use over and over.  If you buy a box of gloves from the pharmacy dept at walgreens or walmart you will save a lot over time.  And keep your brush clean and reuse it, too!

Glass tiles are WAY more expensive than the ceramic ones ($2 a piece as opposed to $.11 at the cheapest), but this project is quick and easy and requires no dry time, no dedicated space to lay out tiles, and no sealing with acrylic spray to allow for heat tolerance.  I am not sure just HOW hot you can get these things, but since they are used in kitchens all the time, I would assume pretty hot!  And the edges are nice and finished on these guys...  Makes for a very professional look.  A word of warning, though.  The glass scratches easily, as does the backing on the actual tile.  Keep pieces of cardboard between your tiles during transport and storage and check them carefully in the store to make sure they are not damaged.  Once you get the backing on them, they should be fine, but it would suck to ruin such expensive materials!

Now I want to find these bigger and make trivets....

Ceramic tile coasters

Update 10/18:  Finally adding photos.  I left my camera at the baby shower along with my memory card with the blog photos.  Oops!

I admittedly didn't come up with this idea. Yes, another unoriginal post from me.  For SHAME lazy crafter.  But I thought it was another great gift idea, so here we are.  I am giving out 2 sets of these for hostess gifts for my "family" shower later this month.  I had to start them early to allow adequate drying and curing time.  I tried to put together the best tips and procedures from other tutorials, so hopefully this is a comprehensive and fool proof post for you!

Supplies needed:
a set of 4, 6, or 8 Clean Ceramic Tiles (get from local hardware store), about 4"x4" (the small size)
Mod Podge
scrapbook paper in a pattern (or patterns) you like
1 Paint brush (can use sponge brush, but I didn't and it came out fine)
Acrylic sealant spray (I used Krylon triple thick acrylic coating)
a shallow dish with a little water in it
paper towels
regular or adhesive backed felt or corkboard
a strong adhesive like rubber cement

Step 0 (oops an afterthought):
Cover your work surface with cardboard.  Paper will stick mercilessly to the tiles (you can pick off the pieces but its a pain), so avoid that if you can.  I used some cut open cereal boxes because they were handy and provided lots of surface area.  Thicker cardboard will allow you to move the tiles to another area while you are waiting for them to dry, unless you have dedicated craft space you are willing to tie up for a few days.  The cereal boxes worked okay for moving the tiles, but I had to be really careful.

Step 1:
Cut the paper into a square slightly smaller than the surface of the tile.  I made mine 1/8" smaller so there would be very little white showing through, but if you want a nice border, more is totally fine.  For a more creative approach, play with this step.  It doesn't have to be a square - try circles, triangles, or stripes.  The sky is the limit.  Also, you do not have to use scrapbook paper.  Try using fabric, photos, wrapping paper, old books, stickers, or other media.  I know that inkjet printed paper has a tendency to run or smear when wet, so that may not be the best idea, but maybe a little water spotting is good!  Its all about your preferences here.  Just make sure that the item is thin enough to adhere well using glorified glue (that is all Mod Podge really is, imo).

Step 2:
Take your paper square and dunk it in the water bowl for a second or two until softened.  Gently pull it out and lay it on the paper towel (double or triple up to prevent soak through).  You can lay out a few at a time to save time for each tile.  Try to get most of the water out so its not dripping wet for the next step.

Step 3:
With the paint brush, spread a thin coat of Mod Podge onto the surface of the tile (do this one at a time).  Take the dampened paper and gently lay it across the tile.  Working from the middle out, run your fingers across the paper to squeeze out excess water and air bubbles.

Step 4:
Paint another thin coat of Mod Podge over the top of the paper, being sure to cover the edges well.  My tile had rough sides, so I coated them with Mod Podge as well to seal out moisture and make them a little less rough to the touch.  Be careful as the Mod Podge can stick the tile to the surface you are working on if you let it drip. The Mod Podge will have a slightly milky color to it, but it will dry clear.  Any brush strokes, however, will show once it dries.  Allow this coat to dry.

Step 5:
Add as many top coats of Mod Podge as you would like.  I used 3 total, including the one in step 4, and it came out great, but they looked pretty good after 2 if you are strapped for time.  Make sure to allow the tiles to dry thoroughly between coats.

Step 6:
After the tiles have thoroughly dried, place them in a large box (so you don't spray all over) or take them outside and place them on cardboard or newspaper.  Spray them with the acrylic spray, according to the can instructions.  They should look wet, usually, so don't be shy!  Allow them to dry according to the can instructions.  Two coats will ensure good coverage, but I was lazy and only did 1.

Step 7:
Once the tiles are completely dry, adhere the felt or cork to the backside.  You can use self adhesive felt, regular felt and some hot glue, super glue, or other strong adhesive, or try cork backing.  I used whatever was lying around the craft room, and got a mix of regular felt and adhesive felt.  Just cut the felt to the correct size and glue/peel and stick.  Let them dry felt side up.  I accidentally stacked a few and ended up with double decker coasters...  I peeled them apart, but there was a nice layer of fuzz left behind on the surface of one of my favorites.  Bummer.

I have seen some blogs recommend buying those little round dots you put on furniture legs and sticking one on each corner.  Doesn't get any easier than THAT!  I do worry that they will not stay on permanently because after a while they always fall off my chair legs, but I am guessing the coasters will not end up sliding around the dining room with several hundred pounds of party guests on them.  That may contribute to a longer life :-)  I would just be mortified if I gave them as a gift and they crapped out...

Step 8:
Once the glue has dried or the self adhesive backing is on, you are done!  I stacked mine and tied them with organza ribbon for presentation as gifts.  I have read that you can buy sets of ceramic tiles at craft stores that come with little storage boxes, but for the price (about $7 for 4 tiles), I was unenthusiastic about even looking for them.

Project Notes:
I used the method of dunking the paper in water before adhering it to the tile.  This is not mandatory, but I found it slid around less as I brushed across it, had less bubbles, and was easier to contour to the slightly rounded surface of the tile.  It does increase the drying time for that first coat and can make the paper easier to tear, so use your discretion as to what you want to do.

Also, Mod Podge is a self sealing product, but many bloggers found that it took a month to fully cure, and until that time, the tiles could not be used for hot drinks (the tile sticks to the bottom of the mug).  I used a clear acrylic sealer to avoid this problem as I have not waited the requisite 1 month to see if it will ruin a cup or not after that.  If you would like to gamble, go for it!  Otherwise, spend the extra $6 and get some Krylon coating.  Bonus - you don't have to make them a month in advance of when you want to use them, or end up with a set of "cold drink only" coasters.

Some posters opted to paint the tiles (or at least the edges) first to match the paper or other medium they were using.  I opted to skip this step as I like the white, but feel free to play with paint as well.  You could presumably just paint a design on the tile and spray with acrylic sealer and have yourself a coaster that way, too.  Knock yourself out - the variations on this project are endless...

Bottom Line:
8 small ceramic tiles @ $0.11/ea = $0.88
1 small bottle Mod Podge = $6
8 scrapbook paper sheets @ $0.20/ea = $1.60

1 Paint brush = $0.40
Acrylic coating spray = $6
2 sheets of felt @ $0.25/ea = $0.50
adhesive for felt < $3

Total time (not counting drying time) = about 2.5 hours
Total cost (for a set of 8 coasters) < $19

The cost sounds high, but the reusable items like the acrylic spray and Mod Podge cost $15, so the cost of the materials to make another set is only about $4 (less if you do a set of 4).  Now THAT makes it worthwhile!  I am doing a bunch of these for Christmas gifts... look out family!

I have a few ideas for variations on this project I thought I would share. There are also glass tiles at the hardware store and I am dying to see if etching cream will work on them.  I imagine snowflakes on a pretty blue tile... oooohhhhh.  If the heat tolerance does turn out to be adequate, I may head back to the store for big tiles and try my hand at a trivet or two.  But there is a HUGE temp difference between a 450 degree casserole and a 110 degree cup of tea... We shall see if I am brave enough to risk one of my baking dishes for science. :-)  The possibilities are soooo enticing...